What is Estate Jewelry?
Estate Jewelry is a term used for any type of pre-owned jewelry that may or may not have been acquired from private estates. The jewelry can be of any age such as contemporary, vintage, or antique.
What is the difference between Contemporary, Vintage, and Antique jewelry?
The term Antique applies to jewelry dating 100 years or older. Vintage jewelry is at least 50 years old. Contemporary jewelry is newer than both vintage and antique pieces.
Georgian 1714-1836
This period is often defined in British history as the reign of King Geroge I, II, II, and IV of the United Kingdom. Georgian jewelry refers to jewelry of a distinctive style which was crafted during this period but not necessarily from the United Kingdom. British upper classes were trained in the austere decorum of personal adornment. There were many rules regarding what type of jewelry was appropriate depending on the time of the day, occasion, marital status, nobility, or age. Despite the great class divide, a group of wealthy merchants emerged as a result of the distribution of wealth caused by the inheritance tax structure. They did not always observe the strict decorum and many left England and brought with them the ostentatious jewelry styles adopted from the noble ranks.
Popular motifs included bows, flowers, and classical subjects. Diamond mines in India and Brazil supplied the privileged with diamonds for their ornate fashions. Candles provided lighting for diamond jewelry to be worn in the evening. Daytime fashions focused more on colored gemstones and paste. The primary metals used in Georgian jewelry were silver and gold due to their natural white and yellow colors. Silver was used to set diamonds and enhance their whiteness whereas gold was used to set color stones to bring out the warmth of colors. Settings had closed backs because the benefits of open-backed settings were not really discovered until the Victorian Era.
Victorian 1836-1901
The Victorian Era is defined by the period from Queen Victoria’s ascension to the throne to her death in 1901. The period coincided with the British Empire’s success and this along with industrial improvements facilitated the growth of the middle class and the affluence of the British people. As a result, jewels were made in styles and prices suitable for the elite as well as the common people.
Some common materials found in Victorian jewelry are: hair, bok oak, gold, cut steel, silver, gutta percha, ivory, seed pearls, Vulcanite, foiling, Bloodstone, Coral, Turquoise, Jet, Tortoise Shell, Opal, and Moonstone. There was also a lot of jewelry crafted with diamonds and precious stones in different cuts and shapes. Kashmir Sapphires appeared on the market during the last decade of this era. It was also during the Victorian period that Mr. K Mikimoto was able to produce semi-spherical pearls. Prior to the perfecting of cultured pearls, they were more costly than diamonds!
As a result of excavations, Etruscan jewelry was discovered and copied. Victorians marveled at the perfectly straight soldered balls of gold. Several members of the Castellani family attempted but could not perfect the art of granulation. Later Fortunato Pio Castellani found and persuaded generation jewelers to work for them and their family was the leader of the revival revolution.
Romantic symbolism was very popular as a jewelry motif. The language of flowers also inspired many articles of meaningful floral jewelry. Queen Victoria was very sentimental and this reflected in much of the jewelry worn during her reign. Her mourning over the death of her husband, Prince Albert, set the tone for the mourning jewelry fashions which dominated the remainder of her reign.
Art Nouveau 1895-1910
The industrial revolution provided the Victorians with the means of mass production. Art nouveau jewelry was a reactionary movement to the fashions of the Victorian period. Ornaments were meant to enhance feminine beauty. The designs of this period are set apart by their mythical motifs, subtle use of colors, and delicate forms. Nature and dreamlike figures were popular designs for this type of jewelry. Empahsis was place on craftmanship and creativity more so than the intrinsic value fo the materials.
The discovery of Japanese art influenced the natural styles popular during this time. The use of enamel and gold working techniques were very much explored and improved. Enamel techniques included Plique-à-jour, Guilloché, Basse-taille, Champlevé, and Cloisonné.
Rene Lalique was a leading figure in the art nouveau movement. Even famous personalities such as Sarah Bernhardt wore Egyptian inspired jewelry by Rene Lalique while playing Cleopatra on stage. A few other famous jewelry firms of the period are Georges Foquet, Gaillard, and Henry Vever.
Edwardian 1901-1910
The Edwardian period is marked by the reign of King Edward VII of the United Kingdom and corresponds to the French Belle Époque period. The new king loved and enjoyed wealth- this paved the way for the wealthy merchant class to mix with the aristocrat upper class. Edwardian jewelry embraced art nouveau ideals with it's light, delicate, and fluid designs. However, it never deviated from traditional themes as severely as art nouveau jewelry. Some of the leading motifs were garlands, bows, and lace. Jewelers were also encouraged by the Edwardian Baroque style of architecture inspired in many public structures. Also, the tiara was still a popular item for Edwardian women.
During this time, platinum became increasily popular for jewelry production. It's strength allowed for fine, light, and durable designs without the bulk and weight from the use of silver and gold. It also did not tarnish or stain clothing. This medium was perfect for the execution of the fine filigree designs of the period. Diamonds and pearls were incorporated into a multitude of designs and mixed well with the white metal. Montana sapphires appeared on the market at the beginning this period as well as demantoid garnets. The new designs required different shapes of stones to accomodate the new settings; therefore, experimention with new cutting styles took effect.
Early designs of the period incorporated the colors of black enamel, jet, or silk with white diamonds as an alternative to the traditional materials of mourning jewelry. Since this type of jewelry was subtle and elegant, it became very popular in mourning and everyday dress. It was due to oriental influence that vivid colors eventually returned to jewelry designs. Jewelers were inspired by peacock feathers, tassels, and flowers.
Art Deco 1915-1935
After the First World War, jewelry was largely influenced by the changing lifestyles of the increasingly liberated women. Women took up the jobs left behind by the men who went off to war. They were no longer the fragile ladies of the previous era. Clothing became more comfortable and streamlined and women no longer wore corsets. Jewelry complimented and reflected the change in fashion and the short hairstyles in vogue. Designs in jewelry became more symmetrical; with straight lines and solid contrasting colors. By this time, platinum became the metal of choice for mounting diamonds.
Art and architecture continued to influence many creations. The discovery of King Tutankhamen's tomb by Edward Ayrton and Sir Flinders Petrie brought renewed interest to ancient Egyptian jewelry. Many items survived intact and this brought a wave of travelers to visit the destination. Egyptian symbols, clothing, and jewelry played an enormous role in the styles of famous jewelry houses such as Cartier, Boucheron, and Van Cleef and Arpels. Increased travel also brought about influence from Indian jewelry. Rubies, emeralds, and sapphires made their way into Art Deco designs. Japanese art continued to influence jewels as well as decorative items.
Women's fashion changed drastically from the previous decades. Hemlines hiked from the ankle to the mid-calf and the knee. The Art Deco lady found themselves in a period of great prosperity and all her trinkets were decorated and jeweled. Many women smoked and carried high decorated cigarette cases and lighters. Purses, fans, lipsticks, and powder cases came in a variety of enamel and gem set designs.
Retro 1940's-1950's
The early part of this period was categorized by jewelry with pink toned gold. This was caused by increased levels of copper in carat gold. The war created a scarcity of precious metals. In France, one had to supply their own gold if one wanted to commission a new piece of jewelry. The prescious stone trade was also affected and supplies became unreliable. As a result, many designs had large metal surfaces with little to no gems set in it. Designs took after industrialization motifs such as tank tracks and bicycle chains.
Women re-entered the work force and fashion changed once again to solid colored knee length skirts and suits with padded shoulders. The jewelry of this period had to be large and bold to compete with this.
When the war ended, jewelry became lighter and more feminine once again. Men returned home and took over the jobs they had previously left behind. Similar to the Victorian era, women focused more on family and the home. Precious stones became more readily available and sometimes completely covered the surface of jewelry. Hollywood was a major influence on fashion. Leading ladies such as Anne Baxter, Marilyn Monroe, Elizabeth Taylor, and Rita Hayworth continued to inspire on the big screen and in tabloids.
1960's-1980's
Increases in wealth and crime rates resulted in very different styles of jewelry for "safe keeping" and daily wear. "Op-Art" motifs were reflected in many pieces. Bright vivid colors, textured gold, and dizzying patterns were the norm. The natural textures of sea shells created an economical material for many jewelry designs. Jewelers such as Seaman Shepps and David Webb incorporated this material into their pieces.
Whimsical versions of animals such as frogs and panthers were featured on many enamel pieces. Organic forms were popular and my gemstones were left in their crystal forms in finished jewelry. The cabochon cut was very fashionable and found in large sizes.
The jewels of the 1970's is much harder to distinguish since many designs remained popular at the same time. The metal of choice was still gold and lower priced stones such as rock crystal was frequently used. Indian jewelry continued to influence designs.
Contemporary 1990's-Present
Jewelry of the late 20th to 21st century reflects the changing economic times and styles. The rising prices of precious metals and stones forced many designers to use an unusual blend of materials along with new techniques. Metals such as darkened platinum and silver can be found with contrasting gold and silver colors. Silver jewelry set with semi-precious and precious stones as well as gold plated designer jewelry are becoming increasingly popular.
New diamond cuts were also introduced into the American market. In 2001, the Royal Asscher Diamond Company , introduced the "Royal Asscher Cut" which featured 74 facets and had superior light performance when compared to other step cut diamonds. Another cut, "Hearts and Arrows" originated from Japan in the 1980's and was sold under the brand "Hearts on Fire" in America in 1997. This cut had ideal porportions and created what looked like heart patterns when viewed under the microscope.
Increasing concerns over ethical mining and conflict diamonds created the need to properly distinguish conflict free diamonds. The Kimberley Process Certification Scheme was introduced in 2003 to to prevent diamond sales which violates human rights and finances wars. Diamonds in their rough forms appeared alongside other facted gemstones and polished metals. The traditional diamond engagement ring appeared with rough diamonds set in the center of textured gold. With more awareness of the environment, many jewelry collectors turn to estate and recycled jewelry in a movement to "go green". Antique designs continue to inspired contemporary pieces.
The economy and environment are constantly changing; but for jewelry lovers, this will only affect what they collect, not whether they will collect!
Works Cited: Mascetti, D. B. (2000). Understanding Jewelry. Woodbridge, Suffolk: Antique Collector's Club.
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